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Top International Fashion News of the Week


Legendary Vogue Italia editor, Franca Sozzani has passed away. The 66-year-old died in Milan on Thursday following a year-long battle with illness. Jonathan Newhouse, the chairman and chief executive of Condé Nast, reported the news himself in the form of a personal letter.

“This is the saddest news I have ever had to report to you,” writes Newhouse. “Franca Sozzani, the Editor of Italian Vogue for 28 years, died today in Milan after a year-long illness with her son Francesco by her side.

Franca was one of the greatest Editors who ever made a magazine. She was by far the most talented, influential and important person within the Condé Nast International organisation.”


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Sozzani, who was well-respected by the industry and known for her boundary-pushing issues of Vogue, will be wholeheartedly missed.

Carolina Herrera is Suing Oscar de la Renta

Two of America’s most prestigious fashion labels are at war this week. Carolina Herrera is suing Oscar de la Renta over a single, and very talented, employee.

Laura Kim is the woman at the centre of the battle. Kim, who is also one of the creative directors and founders of Monse, recently departed Carolina Herrera to head to Oscar de la Renta. The designer, who was senior vice president of design at Carolina Herrera, was appointed as a co-creative director of Oscar de la Renta alongside her Monse partner, Fernando Garcia.

According to Herrera, however, Kim is in breach of her 6-month non-compete agreement by working for ODLR. While the issue is yet to be resolved, a court has issued a temporary restraining order blocking Kim from continuing to work.

Bobbi Brown is Leaving her Namesake Brand

25 years after founding her own cosmetics line, Bobbi Brown has announced that she will step down from her namesake brand. The makeup artist and entrepreneur confirmed that she will depart the business by the end of the year.

“The brand’s 25-year anniversary was a wonderful milestone that made me realise it was time to start a new chapter and move on to new ventures,” said Brown. “I am thankful for the extraordinary people that I’ve had the privilege to work with over the years and proud of the creative endeavours and innovative products we’ve created together.

Brown began her line back in 1991 and was instrumental in the 90’s “natural” makeup movement. Following its launch, the brand quickly became a household name. Despite selling her company to Estee Lauder in 1995, Brown remained heavily involved in the operations of the business.

Dior’s First Campaign Under Maria Grazia Chiuri Revealed

Dior’s first campaign under its new artistic director, Maria Grazia Chiuri has been revealed. The ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2017 campaign shows off Chiuri’s first set of designs for the French house.

Featuring twin models, Ruth and May Bell, the campaign was shot by French photographer Brigitte Lacombe and conveys the collection’s contemporary feminine aesthetic. Clean, minimal and infused with a subtle edge, the images are fuss-free and clearly focused on the clothes and the women who wear them.

The campaign also forms part of a larger project for the brand titled “The Women Behind the Lens”, which features a series of images taken exclusively by women for the label.

Natalie Massenet Reportedly Heading to Farfetch

According to a series of reports, Net-a-Porter founder, Natalie Massenet may be heading back into the world of e-commerce. If the rumours are to be believed, Massenet is being courted by luxury online store, Farfetch for an advisory position.

While the news is yet to be confirmed by any of the involved parties, it is reported that the position is unlikely to be a full-time role due to Massenet’s other commitments, including her advisory firm and company, Imaginary Ventures. Even if the position is not on a full-time basis, however, it is likely to benefit Farfetch. The company has been preparing itself for an IPO and would likely receive a boost with the businesswoman on board as support.

Massenet announced her departure from Net-a-Porter in September of last year, just weeks before the group’s merger was finalised with the Italian group, Yoox. Due to the timing of this news with Farfetch, it is suspected that Massenet had a 12-month non-compete contract to see out.

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08:25 Publié dans Fashion | Tags : fashion, dresses | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)


When will fashion become truly inclusive?


‘Diversity’ was a real buzzword in fashion this year. There were transgender models on the catwalk, a plus-size face on the cover of Vogue and the most racially diverse runway season in history.

But has anything really changed in the industry famed for capitalising on people’s differences and dropping them as soon as the next big thing comes along?

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In a recent panel orchestrated by The Business of Fashion on the topic of diversity and inclusion, model Joan Smalls used a term that sums up the whole problem with the current focus on diversity: “Sometimes, people jump on bandwagons and do things because it’s cool for the season. The next season, they forget the message they were trying to send because it was a ‘fad’.”

And she’s right. Brands and publications have a tendency to jump on the diversity bandwagon and showcase the ‘flavour of the month’ – whether that’s models who don’t fit into a standard sample size or ones who sit outside of the traditional girl next door definition of beauty. The issue is it only lasts for one season with the designers and editors choosing to go back to what they’re comfortable with (i.e. young, white and thin) a few months later.

When it comes to fashion shows, it’s common knowledge that things such as ‘racial quotas’ exist. This means that you may spot a token black or Asian model; someone who doesn’t fit into the all-white show but is there simply to ‘prove’ that the designer is supporting diversity.

Now, we live in an extremely multicultural world. Showing this on a catwalk is surely the modern view of beauty. Again, Joan Smalls made a good point surrounding this, saying: “When I see a runway with all the same models that are just clones, I’m like: “Is that your beauty? Is that your world?” It’s very one-sided and bland. You should be reflective of the world you live in.”

One major brand that does attempt to represent the greater world is also a controversial one. Victoria’s Secret and the lingerie-filled show watched by millions is seen by many as an archaic demonstration of femininity. Yes, the VS show may only feature models of a certain size (and wouldn’t we all love to see Ashley Graham in some wings?) but it was one of the most ethnically diverse displays around with 17 non-white models walking. That’s almost half of the 52 women that were cast; a much more promising statistic than the ones coming from fashion month.

The Fashion Spot‘s biannual diversity report revealed that the recent SS17 season was the most diverse fashion month in history. Sounds encouraging but on closer inspection, the statistics are still sadly depressing. Just over 25% of the models appearing in London, Milan, Paris and New York were non-white. Although designers such as Ashish and Kanye West’s Yeezy used mainly models of colour (75% and 97% respectively), there were still some shows that disappointingly featured an entirely white cast.

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07:46 Publié dans Fashion | Tags : fashion, model, dress | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)


The Fast Fashion Crisis


We live in a world of fast fashion, where giant retailers like Forever21 and H&M move quickly to get cheap clothing from the runways to our closets in a matter of weeks.

The stuff they manufacture is relentlessly cheap, poorly-made, and is usually made in places where labor standards aren’t anywhere near ethical.

But it’s not just the clothing itself that’s the problem; it’s the sheer volume of it.

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Last spring, fast-fashion giant, H&M, launched its so called “Conscious Collection” – a take-back program designed to recycle rejected and outdated clothing items. The problem is this:

“The inexpensive clothing is poor quality, with low resale value, and there’s just too much of it,” said writer Jared T. Miller about the fast-fashion crisis for Newsweek. Our world is overwhelmed.

Now you may be thinking, “Why does it matter if we can just recycle it when we’re done?”Here’s the issue.

First, clothing fibers go through a great deal of unnatural processes before becoming clothing. They’re soaked in chemical baths, bleaches and dyes that don’t bode well for the earth when they head to landfills.

Second, buying an item of clothing that you will then toss in a matter of months is a ludicrous waste of money – both to manufacture it and ultimately dispose of it.

What You Can Do Instead

#1: Don’t fall into the fast-fashion trap. Limit your spending on trendy items that come through large retailers and instead purchase high quality articles of clothing that will last you a lifetime.

#2: Just buy less. There’s a common saying that the easiest way to be content is simply to want less. Work on paring down your wardrobe to items that you absolutely love, that fit you well, and that will last.

#3: Work on down-cycling genuinely unwearable clothing in ways that will be useful to you for a while. While it’s not a closed-loop solution, turning old t-shirts or towels into kitchen rags can be a great way to keep textiles out of the landfill for a while.

#4: Support small business and local artisans. Give some of the power to local creators who will make beautiful, lasting things for you. Get items of clothing tailored to fit you through and through so that you don’t give up on them too soon.

#5: Take care of the clothing that you buy! Learn to mend torn or stained pieces and care for them properly so they last. Click for our best roundup of tips for how to extend the life of your clothing here: 5 Ways to Extend the Life of Your Clothing.

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07:37 Publié dans Fashion | Tags : crisis,fashion | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)