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22/03/2017

Ooh-La-La Beauty Secrets

 

Buck's ease with the language came in handy in 1994, when she set out to rebrand the bible of Paris fashion with an edgier, American attitude and newsier reporting.

Last week the opinionated Francophile and I had a long talk about beauty, style and aging. As Buck sees it, here's what we stand to learn from our French sisters.

Adjust your style speed. "I think many American women tend to get locked in a sort of 'time rut,'" Buck told me during her recent book tour. "They hang on to how they looked, and what they wore, when they were at their most fashionable.

"Frenchwomen, by contrast, acknowledge that your body, your hair and your face all change after age 50 — especially your face, and especially between 50 and 60. Rather than trying to look young, they simply play up the good, camouflage the bad and emphasize the here and now with a consistent, signature look that expresses their taste. Carolina Herrera. 78, and Charlotte Rampling, 71, are perfect examples of this approach."

Ditch what doesn't work. "Frenchwomen pare down their accessories, their clothes and their makeup to only the items that flatter them. They don't hoard. In my own case, for example, wearing earrings, printed scarves, jackets, high heels and smoky eye makeup makes me look and feel older now, so they're off the list.

"I prefer very simple clothes — almost like a soldier's uniform — in shades of navy blue rather than black (which is draining to mature skin). Tunics, pants and sweaters (in navy, of course!) are my staples. So are long-sleeve T-shirts from Uniqlo, a classic trench coat and my bold black or tortoiseshell eyeglasses. Some might call the look androgynous, but it suits me now.

"What I can't ever seem to find are size 7 shoes wide enough for my feet, which have gotten broader and bonier with age. That's why I'm never without good insole pads."

Compensate with a coif. Frenchwomen find a perfect haircut, according to Buck, then tweak it for a contemporary edge. "After a certain age," she observed, "long hair thins out, or it requires being wrestled into submission as its texture changes. I gradually cropped mine short, and now it feels modern, sexy and powerful."

Get serious about skin care. Unlike American women, Buck said, the French do not feel compelled to share their beauty secrets. But her job at Vogue made her aware that many of them rely on a mix of pharmaceutical, botanical and homeopathic remedies.

As for her own regimen, Buck reported using "a goat's-milk facial soap, a special botanical serum of horsetail and devil's claw (for my joints) and lavender spray — I mist it around me 24/7, especially if anyone sneezes, and it's good for your skin and mood, too."

Though Buck said she doesn't like the idea of dramatically altering one's face with a surgical face-lift, she does endorse "microcurrent treatments," which use low levels of electricity to stimulate facial muscles "for a tighter, smoother look." Popular in Paris, according to Buck, this particular skin therapy is now catching on in New York as well.

Make over your makeup. "Red lipstick is not for everyone," noted Buck (who no longer wears the shade herself). "Frenchwomen sometimes wear more makeup than we do, but they apply it with a lighter touch, so the effect is subtle."

Pressed to divulge a few beauty secrets, Buck allowed that "Lauren Hutton taught me always to put concealer under my nostrils — that instantly gives your face a fresh look. Oh, and no more smoky eyes, be they black or brown; I've switched to a mauvey-gray powder shadow blended above and below my eyes, with a neutral lip."

We'd been on the phone a good two hours by now, and Buck concluded the back-and-forth on an upbeat note: "It's funny how when you're 50, you think life ends at 65," she told me. "But then you just keep adapting to the here and now. Today's women in their 50s, 60s and 70s don't want to look like someone's mother; they're dating, they're working, they're highly visible on social media. The goal is to spark a connection or delight other people, and I think we're doing that."Read more at:long prom dresses | plus size prom dresses uk

 

12:26 Publié dans Fashion | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)

20/03/2017

Corsets are making a comeback - on top of clothes

 

Believe it or not, corsets are back.

Fashion corsets are now popping up at your local mall, in big-box stores like Zara and at popular online hubs like ASOS.com. Shopstyle.com reports corset searches are up a whopping 97.2 per cent year-over-year (corset belts are the most popular).

But those adopting the look aren't wearing the Victorian-era waist-cinchers like they used to. Trend-setters like Gigi Hadid, Kim Kardashian are strapping corsets over their clothes, putting all that boning on display.

The look didn't come out of a vacuum: Alexander McQueen, Dolce & Gabbana, Balmain, Louis Vuitton and Preen have all sent the rib-crunching trend down their runways.

But a sharp renaissance involving the look came from Prada's Fall 2016 collection, which showcased loosely tied corsets over Miuccia Prada's designs. "It just looked so cool," says Eric Wilson, fashion news director at InStyle. "It was more of a nod to that history in a very knowing way by taking ownership of this garment that was once so restrictive."

Within days, he adds, "people were making their own corset belts."

So while on the big screen Emma Watson ditched the corset in Beauty and the Beast, on the red carpet it's all about boning - just look to the premiere of Personal Shopper, when Kristen Stewart hopped onto the trend, wearing Sally LaPointe's corset pants.

So what's the M.O. here? Is this a 2017 twist on bra-burning - or a return to ghastly expectations of the female form?

Centuries ago, the corset rose in popularity as a suffocating, cinching device among aristocrats, with linen-wrapped boning leaving women gasping, and sometimes fainting, as their organs were rearranged so mid-sections could be pulled taut.

The look died out in the early 20th century as war supplies took priority or fashion. By the 1920s, the corseted look had waned in favour of looser styles, coinciding with a decade that finally gave women the right to vote in the US.

More recently, corsets have been mostly relegated to costuming. Madonna reclaimed the trend in 1989, donning Jean Paul Gaultier's pink satin corset with conical bra cups, a stage look later mimicked by Beyonce and Lady Gaga. More recently, Kim Kardashian endorsed waist-trainers as a figure-shaping miracle, to the chagrin of the medical community.

"For the most part they are used to gain a more hourglass figure," says Ruben Soto of Hourglass Angel, which sells a variety of shapewear and undergarments. Though he hasn't seen an specific uptick in corset sales since stars flipped the approach on how to wear them, "maybe long term it will change the impression of what corsets are and make them a little more approachable," he says.

Corsetry pops up cyclically in the fashion world "every decade," says Wilson, who doesn't think the latest incarnation is simply a celebrity fad among 'It' girls, like Nicola Peltz or Hailey Baldwin, who often layer the rib-crunching undergarment over t-shirts and thermals.

This time, as the women's movement grows during the Trump era, insiders say the intention is far more politicised.

"I don't think this is a trend that people are adopting just because Kim Kardashian wore it," says Wilson. "It's such a powerful look that even putting it on, even if you're not aware of what the discussion is around it, you have to realise you're basically putting a bra or a corset over your clothes. That significance can't be lost on people."

But not everyone is sucking in their stomachs and lacing up.

"Being a lady today means being a fighter. It means being a survivor. It means letting yourself be vulnerable and acknowledging your shame or that you're sad or you're angry. It takes great strength to do that," wrote Lady Gaga in an essay for Harper's Bazaar last November.

Gaga credited her mother and grandmothers' strength. "That's the kind of lady I want to be. You know, I never thought I'd say this, but isn't it time to take off the corsets? As someone who loves them, I think it's time to take them off."Read more at:prom dress shops | formal dresses uk

 

08:25 Publié dans Fashion | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)

16/03/2017

Say hello to spring

 

A profusion of soothing off-whites and powdery pastels; textured saris that are all about the weave; and embellishments that are content being in the background — that’s what designer Anavila Misra is known for. Her latest line being showcased in the city is no different. Titled Hello Spring, it features linen saris and garments in organic handwoven fabrics. Each one of them has timeless appeal, and can be worn differently with just a little styling twist.The Spring/Summer 2017 line, which the designer calls ‘When we look back tomorrow’ celebrates organic, hand-crafted fabric and a monochromatic colour palette.

“I presented this collection last year at Amazon India Fashion Week, and we opted for detailed work on the loom to create different textures. For spring, we’ve taken the same textures off the ramp and rendered them in pastels. If you see the saris, what we’ve done is play with different textures.”As always, linen is the star of Misra’s collection. “I prefer the fabric, as everyone knows by now. I’ve used some silk and cotton just to create textures. Some cording using cotton yarn, or a lino weave using silk yarn. That lends a natural pattern and makes it truly hand-made.” The palette starts at ivory, moves on to beige, yellow and nudes before culminating in graphite and lead.

The line also features botanicals, almost a staple in Misra’s collection. “We have a few block-printed saris and some that feature khatwa (patchwork). We work with a group in Jharkhand, and so we always find a place for their work in any line, to support them and their craft. This time around, we’ve done small floral twigs with embroidery and patchwork.”Last year was momentous in many ways for Misra. She opened her flagship store in Mumbai. “It’s a great feeling. It’s doing well and gives us an idea of how the collection looks when put together. When you work with multi-brand outlets or have a rack or two in a store, there’s only that much of a story you can tell. This is your work, narrated and showcased in a space that bears your personality.”So, what’s next? Nothing, says Misra. “I’ve taken a break from the fashion weeks this year, and am trying to re-innovate the brand, thinking of something new to do.” But yes, whatever she does, linen will continue to be the love of her design life.Read more at:prom dresses 2016 | cocktail dresses

 

11:32 Publié dans Fashion | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)